Please, I need help. I am not asking for miracles, just a starting point. [Archive] - VW JETTA Forum •JETTAJUNKIE.COM |Volkswagen JETTA Club|VW Jetta Forum|RSS|Jetta Owners|VW Jetta Mods|VW Jetta DIY|Reviews|Performance|

: Please, I need help. I am not asking for miracles, just a starting point.



William Hixson III
01-30-2011, 08:08 PM
I am hoping someone can give me some help. To start, here are my car's stats:

2001 Jetta
2.0 Gas Engine
4 door
89,000 miles

I have been struggling with this car for a while, but I am underemployed, and can't really afford much. I want to be able to sort this out myself, hopefully one item at a time. I recently borrowed a code reader OBD II.

It returned with 14 error codes. I am aware that some of them are caused by the other's, but I am going blind searching all of this out on Google. I just don't have much experience with this. Here are the codes:

P0420 (catalyst efficiency)
P0171 (System too lean)
P0102 (MAF or VAF Circuit low input)
P0300/0301/0302/0303/0304 (misfires)
P1296 (manufacturer controlled fuel and air)
P0606 (PCM Processor Fault)
P0121/0221 (TPS)
P0638 (throttle Actuator)

I have cleared all of the codes, and the check engine light. I drove it around for about 20 minutes, hoping to catch which was the first one to hit, but I can't get it to do what it was doing. Mainly, not idling during startup, not being able to get high RPM's (over 2000) without stalling, and shutdown and EPC light coming on when downshifting.

I can't stress this enough, I can't afford to fix everything at once, but I need this car for the limited amount of work I can find, so can someone tell me where the most important spot to start is? A garage is not an option.

Also, I am a Microsoft certified computer tech, so if we can exchange helpful advice, it would be great.

Will Hixson

William Hixson III
01-31-2011, 07:55 AM
OK, I after clearing the codes, the check engine light came back on, and it returned the P0102 (MAF sensor).

I am going to try and clean it, with some spray, and see what happens.

Am I on the right track?

Is anyone actually reading this?

ApexerVR6
01-31-2011, 12:33 PM
OK, I after clearing the codes, the check engine light came back on, and it returned the P0102 (MAF sensor).

I am going to try and clean it, with some spray, and see what happens.

Am I on the right track?

Is anyone actually reading this?

You're on the right track. A lot of those other codes can be triggered by a dirty MAF. Clean it up and see how it goes. If all else fails and the MAF code come back then you'll probably need a new one.

Marc1987
01-31-2011, 12:53 PM
yeah, that can cause the cat efficiency code too, lets us know what happens once you clean the maf

William Hixson III
02-01-2011, 07:04 AM
Thank You for your replies. A buddy of mine has some spray, and is supposed to bring it over to safe me some cash, but the snowstorm has slowed things up.

I was going through the Haynes repair manual and came across this: "Anytime battery power is disconnected from the ECM, stored operating parameters will be lost from the ECM, which will cause various driveability problems until the ECM can be reset with a scan tool"

Does this mean that when I replaced the battery, several months ago, that this may have cause some of these codes. Not the MAF, but the others? This car went into "limp" mode already, and I think that started happening after the battery change.

ApexerVR6
02-01-2011, 11:52 AM
Thank You for your replies. A buddy of mine has some spray, and is supposed to bring it over to safe me some cash, but the snowstorm has slowed things up.

I was going through the Haynes repair manual and came across this: "Anytime battery power is disconnected from the ECM, stored operating parameters will be lost from the ECM, which will cause various driveability problems until the ECM can be reset with a scan tool"

Does this mean that when I replaced the battery, several months ago, that this may have cause some of these codes. Not the MAF, but the others? This car went into "limp" mode already, and I think that started happening after the battery change.

That's tough to say but, it doesn't really matter anymore because when you cleared the codes that is when you actually reset the ECU and now the ECU threw another code so I think you're past that possibility from changing the battery.

Boost Addicted
02-01-2011, 12:24 PM
Agreed on all counts here. The MAF sensor is directly related to every symptom and code that you have (including the EPC light) except for; PCM processor fault, and the TPS code. The PCM fault is a little frightening since that's the brain (main computer) of the car. The TPS (throttle position sensor) is built into your drive-by-wire throttle body. That code can be caused by a misaligned throttle plate, a dirty throttle body, or a defective throttle body (very expensive).

But for now, worry about getting the MAF sensor cleaned, and if necessary, replaced. They run pretty cheap now I believe (they go up and down all the time) so you shouldn't be spending more than $120. Once you've done that and you know the car drives better, reset your CEL, drive for about 100 miles city/highway combined, and rescan to see if you have any residual codes and we can go from there. Worst case scenario with the MAF sensor is that it's the wiring, not the sensor. But that's almost unheard of. Best to check the immediate wiring though, for cracks and corrosion.

PS. Unplugging your battery can give you delayed shifts if you've got an auto transmission, but that's about it. There can be other driveability factors that feel rough for a couple hundred miles, but disconnecting power from the car should never throw codes (though sometimes it will set off your securety system if equipped).



And I'll take you up on your offer lol. I have a 10 day old Toshiba Satelllite C655 with Windows 7 64bit. I've done nothing but go to basic websites and installed Street Atlas. Yesterday it did a Windows update (automatic, and ''Critical''). After the update it restarted by itself as normal, but never got past the windows loading screen. Didn't even make it to the login page. I got in with safe mode and networking just fine, but couldn't do a virus scan (also installed bit defender). Loaded ''Last known good config'' and it made no difference, wont load.. So... Corrupted MS update? Faulty Hardware? Feel free to post in my profile if you'd like so your thread doesn't get cluttered.

William Hixson III
02-03-2011, 11:14 AM
Ok, got some MAF spray, took out the MAF, sprayed the hell out of it, in many short bursts, waited for it to evaporate, and re-installed it, plus a new air filter, since I was in there. I also threw in some gumout, in case the throttle body is still going to give me problems, I hope this was a good decision!

Before I did any of this today, I had a lot of trouble getting it running in order to go to Autozone and get what I needed. It would start, idle roughly, then stall out. I had to repeat starting it at least 20 times before I could get it to idle without stalling, although still rough. AFTER I did all this, I haven't had that problem, although I will wait until tomorrow morning after it sits all night until I declare any kind of victory on that one.

So, since the cleaning I drove it around for about 20 minutes, on the mountain roads of PA. It seems like the acceleration has picked back up, and it hasn't thrown any codes yet.

Could the MAF problems have thrown the codes for the TPS? Or should I start shooting on that one now?

Thanks everyone for your help!
Thanks Boost Addicted for your private help on this one!

Will

Boost Addicted
02-03-2011, 12:14 PM
Great to hear! But it's still early, give it a couple days and see how it does.

And also, throttle body codes will be totally on their own.. MAF codes shouldn't cause them.

Vixen
02-03-2011, 01:34 PM
Ok, got some MAF spray, took out the MAF, sprayed the hell out of it, in many short bursts, waited for it to evaporate, and re-installed it, plus a new air filter, since I was in there. I also threw in some gumout, in case the throttle body is still going to give me problems, I hope this was a good decision!

Before I did any of this today, I had a lot of trouble getting it running in order to go to Autozone and get what I needed. It would start, idle roughly, then stall out. I had to repeat starting it at least 20 times before I could get it to idle without stalling, although still rough. AFTER I did all this, I haven't had that problem, although I will wait until tomorrow morning after it sits all night until I declare any kind of victory on that one.

So, since the cleaning I drove it around for about 20 minutes, on the mountain roads of PA. It seems like the acceleration has picked back up, and it hasn't thrown any codes yet.

Could the MAF problems have thrown the codes for the TPS? Or should I start shooting on that one now?

Thanks everyone for your help!
Thanks Boost Addicted for your private help on this one!

Will

Sounds like the maf to me. When my new one fried that's exactly what it did, started hard and idled like shit, then dead.

William Hixson III
02-03-2011, 03:02 PM
Yep, too good to be true. I got the engine light back the code for the MAF came back, plus p1296 (manufacturer controlled fuel and air), which sounds like it is from the MAF malfunction. I guess the next step is replacing the MAF now. Which I can not afford. I lost a job today because of this car. I will update whenever I can afford to get a new one, then hopefully I will be able to get to the throttle body, which will be even more expensive.

Vixen
02-03-2011, 03:20 PM
Yep, too good to be true. I got the engine light back the code for the MAF came back, plus p1296 (manufacturer controlled fuel and air), which sounds like it is from the MAF malfunction. I guess the next step is replacing the MAF now. Which I can not afford. I lost a job today because of this car. I will update whenever I can afford to get a new one, then hopefully I will be able to get to the throttle body, which will be even more expensive.

Yeah that sucks, I'm driving with a shitty MAF too. Don't get one from the dealer, try checking germanautoparts.com or ecstuning.com

William Hixson III
02-03-2011, 07:32 PM
I found one here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370476375150&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT), and I think it is the correct one. It's the cheapest I have come across, but I don't know enough about this stuff to know if it is a good brand, or some knock-off that won't work. The guy has a good rating.

Also, how do I know if I have an AEG, AVH, or AZG engine. Probably a silly question, but I haven't a clue.

Vixen
02-03-2011, 07:50 PM
I found one here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370476375150&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT), and I think it is the correct one. It's the cheapest I have come across, but I don't know enough about this stuff to know if it is a good brand, or some knock-off that won't work. The guy has a good rating.

Eh I'd probably stay away from ebay for the most part. A lot of those are crappy asian knock offs that fry pretty easily. Don't get one unless it is OEM Bosch. Also, I believe any MAF will work as long as it is from a MK4. I think they all have the same part number, the 2.0 and 12v/24v VR6's use the same number, not positive on 1.8t's and TDI's though.

Boost Addicted
02-03-2011, 11:11 PM
Eh I'd probably stay away from ebay for the most part. A lot of those are crappy asian knock offs that fry pretty easily. Don't get one unless it is OEM Bosch. Also, I believe any MAF will work as long as it is from a MK4. I think they all have the same part number, the 2.0 and 12v/24v VR6's use the same number, not positive on 1.8t's and TDI's though.

They're all the same, just different housings. Though the OP has a 2.0, and those are known for MAF issues (due to other reasons than the unit itself) and are thus cheaper because VW was about to grow a conscious, but then backed off. So what he's looking at is probably the cheapest...

Anyway, the MAF gods must be pissed off because I just got a P0300 multi cyl random misfire.......