I put this DIY together to help anyone out that is going to have to go through the painstaking process of replacing the crankcase vent system because all of their stock hoses have rotted through and fallen apart. Instead of having to pay not only dealership labor costs, the hoses from the dealership start at $74 each. So hopefully I can lay this out well enough that you can use this to help you install this kit yourself.
Tools Needed:
5mm Allen Wrench (hex wrench)
10mm Socket
Flat head screwdriver in several lengths
Needle Nose Pliers
Pair of dikes (wire cutters)
Good Flashlight or Work Light
Dremel Tool (if your brave and have steady hands)
A Crap Ton of Patience
Small Pair of Hands if You Have Access to Some
First off the pictures on mine are going to be different because I had already replaced the stock hoses with my ******* version, that successfully lasted just under 2 weeks. So hopefully you will get the idea.
I am using the Crankcase breather kit from 034 MotorSport. It was $114 and some change including shipping. The kit comes with everything needed to do the project including hose clamps. Here is the link http://www.034motorsport.com/engine...-kit-mk4-18t-reinforced-silicone-p-19987.html
1. You are going to first remove your engine cover. After you remove that you will notice this funky looking Y hose coming off of your valve cover. There are 3 hose clamps that you are going to have to cut off (if they are the stock one time use clamps). I removed these with my pair of dikes and/or my dremel.
Notice: I have installed my own hoseclamps in these spots. If you are running stock hoses your's WILL look different.
2. After you have removed the upper Y hose, you will find on the front of the intake there is a metal plate that has a plastic air hose mounted to it as well as the oil dipstick. First you will see where the plastic hose is attached to that plate by 2 10mm nuts. Remove the nuts and loosen the air hose from the plate. You may want to unplug the hose at its connector to the right of the intake to allow it more movement. Then you will see 2 5mm allen (hex) bolts connecting that plate to the intake. You will want to remove those to allow that plate to move a little so you can get your hand in the tight spot underneath the intake. You can remove the intake all together if you would like, it would make access much easier but is time consuming. The green arrows denote the 10mm nuts and the red boxes are the allen bolts.
3. After you have loosened the plate, then comes the fun part (if you didn't remove the intake). You will see a 90 degree hard plastic hose connected into a 1" diameter hole in the block, this is where the flashlight comes in. This hose is held in by a retaining pin. You need to first remove a white electrical connector from its clip-in holder (Sorry but I couldn't get my camera in there good enough to get a picture of the white connector), if you dont take this connector out the retainer pin will not come out. After the white connector has been removed there is plenty of wire slack to move it. You will need to then take a long flat head screwdriver and stick it between the intake and begin to wedge the pin out of place, but not too far. You MUST keep this pin, do not drop it or misplace it or you will have to go get another one. After you have loosened the pin you can reach in from the right side with a pair of needle nose pliers and completely remove the pin. The pin is difficult to see in the pic but I outlined the head of it where the screwdriver needs to be placed and then the left side of the pin.
4. After the pin has been removed you may have to wiggle the hose out of its socket to remove it. I had to take and spray a VERY SMALL amount of PB Blaster down there to get it out. Once the 90 has been removed from the block you can then go to the right under side of the intake and find where that hose makes a T. This is where the PCV valve is located. There is a hose that is connected to the top of the T via a one time use clamp. You are going to have to break that clamp and remove the top hose from the T to be able to remove the vent system. Once again I couldn't get a great picture.
The top most aftermarket hose clamp in the photo is where you need to remove the stock one. After that hose has been removed you can now pull the old hoses out very carefully. When I did my ******* install I yanked that stuff out and ended up breaking the 90 hose. I attempted to epoxy it back together... did not work out so well.
So just for future reference... That aint gonna work.
5. Once the old vent system has been pulled out, I took the time to clean where the 90 hose connected into the block. My original hose had deteriorated, and left some stuff behind.
6. Once you have all of that cleaned up, you can start installing your new kit. I began with the 90 hose that goes to the block. The 034 kit has the 90, the T, and the S hose all made into one. You are going to have to go in at the right side of the intake to get it to slide back into place. Once you have the new hose lined up just right you will have to apply some pressure on the top of the hose to get it to slip down into the connector at the block. I accomplished this by using the handle end of a long screwdriver, by pushing down on the top through the gaps in the intake. After the hose has settled into the connector you are going to have to continue with the pressure while you slide the retaining pin back into place. Trying to do all of that at once is a pain, you will probably need someone to atleast hold your light for you while you attempt to hold pressure and insert the pin.
7. Once the 90 is back in the block next you will need to place the S hose in-between all of the other hoses at the right of the intake to it matches up correctly with the new Y hose.
Hopefully the pictures give you a pretty good idea of how to snake that thing back up through there.
8. After you have the S portion of the new hose positioned right you are going to want to reconnect the hose that went to the top of the T on the old hose to the new PCV valve. The kit comes with a hose to replace the stock one but in my noob mechanical knowledge I could not figure out where it went. My original hoses were all in good shape so I just kept the stock one. The hose at the top of the T should have plenty of give to allow it to be hose clamped to the new hose/PCV valve. Make sure you get a good connection on this hose as it is hard to reach and not very easy to tell if you got it on there very well.
9. After everything is in place under the intake you can now reconnect the new Y hose. This is simply done in the reverse order of taking the original off.
10. Reconnect all of the plates and air hoses that were removed in the beginning. The air hose that is connected to the front plate (if you disconnected it at the right of the intake) will have to be re routed behind the new S hose to reach its stock location.
Here is what my ******* setup looked like compared to the crisp and clean 034 kit.
This is only my second DIY on here. If anyone has any questions about this please either post it up on here or send me a PM. If you notice anything that is off or isnt right please alert me and I will fix it as soon as I can. I really hope this helps yall out.
Tools Needed:
5mm Allen Wrench (hex wrench)
10mm Socket
Flat head screwdriver in several lengths
Needle Nose Pliers
Pair of dikes (wire cutters)
Good Flashlight or Work Light
Dremel Tool (if your brave and have steady hands)
A Crap Ton of Patience
Small Pair of Hands if You Have Access to Some
First off the pictures on mine are going to be different because I had already replaced the stock hoses with my ******* version, that successfully lasted just under 2 weeks. So hopefully you will get the idea.
I am using the Crankcase breather kit from 034 MotorSport. It was $114 and some change including shipping. The kit comes with everything needed to do the project including hose clamps. Here is the link http://www.034motorsport.com/engine...-kit-mk4-18t-reinforced-silicone-p-19987.html
1. You are going to first remove your engine cover. After you remove that you will notice this funky looking Y hose coming off of your valve cover. There are 3 hose clamps that you are going to have to cut off (if they are the stock one time use clamps). I removed these with my pair of dikes and/or my dremel.
Notice: I have installed my own hoseclamps in these spots. If you are running stock hoses your's WILL look different.
2. After you have removed the upper Y hose, you will find on the front of the intake there is a metal plate that has a plastic air hose mounted to it as well as the oil dipstick. First you will see where the plastic hose is attached to that plate by 2 10mm nuts. Remove the nuts and loosen the air hose from the plate. You may want to unplug the hose at its connector to the right of the intake to allow it more movement. Then you will see 2 5mm allen (hex) bolts connecting that plate to the intake. You will want to remove those to allow that plate to move a little so you can get your hand in the tight spot underneath the intake. You can remove the intake all together if you would like, it would make access much easier but is time consuming. The green arrows denote the 10mm nuts and the red boxes are the allen bolts.
3. After you have loosened the plate, then comes the fun part (if you didn't remove the intake). You will see a 90 degree hard plastic hose connected into a 1" diameter hole in the block, this is where the flashlight comes in. This hose is held in by a retaining pin. You need to first remove a white electrical connector from its clip-in holder (Sorry but I couldn't get my camera in there good enough to get a picture of the white connector), if you dont take this connector out the retainer pin will not come out. After the white connector has been removed there is plenty of wire slack to move it. You will need to then take a long flat head screwdriver and stick it between the intake and begin to wedge the pin out of place, but not too far. You MUST keep this pin, do not drop it or misplace it or you will have to go get another one. After you have loosened the pin you can reach in from the right side with a pair of needle nose pliers and completely remove the pin. The pin is difficult to see in the pic but I outlined the head of it where the screwdriver needs to be placed and then the left side of the pin.
4. After the pin has been removed you may have to wiggle the hose out of its socket to remove it. I had to take and spray a VERY SMALL amount of PB Blaster down there to get it out. Once the 90 has been removed from the block you can then go to the right under side of the intake and find where that hose makes a T. This is where the PCV valve is located. There is a hose that is connected to the top of the T via a one time use clamp. You are going to have to break that clamp and remove the top hose from the T to be able to remove the vent system. Once again I couldn't get a great picture.
The top most aftermarket hose clamp in the photo is where you need to remove the stock one. After that hose has been removed you can now pull the old hoses out very carefully. When I did my ******* install I yanked that stuff out and ended up breaking the 90 hose. I attempted to epoxy it back together... did not work out so well.
So just for future reference... That aint gonna work.
5. Once the old vent system has been pulled out, I took the time to clean where the 90 hose connected into the block. My original hose had deteriorated, and left some stuff behind.
6. Once you have all of that cleaned up, you can start installing your new kit. I began with the 90 hose that goes to the block. The 034 kit has the 90, the T, and the S hose all made into one. You are going to have to go in at the right side of the intake to get it to slide back into place. Once you have the new hose lined up just right you will have to apply some pressure on the top of the hose to get it to slip down into the connector at the block. I accomplished this by using the handle end of a long screwdriver, by pushing down on the top through the gaps in the intake. After the hose has settled into the connector you are going to have to continue with the pressure while you slide the retaining pin back into place. Trying to do all of that at once is a pain, you will probably need someone to atleast hold your light for you while you attempt to hold pressure and insert the pin.
7. Once the 90 is back in the block next you will need to place the S hose in-between all of the other hoses at the right of the intake to it matches up correctly with the new Y hose.
Hopefully the pictures give you a pretty good idea of how to snake that thing back up through there.
8. After you have the S portion of the new hose positioned right you are going to want to reconnect the hose that went to the top of the T on the old hose to the new PCV valve. The kit comes with a hose to replace the stock one but in my noob mechanical knowledge I could not figure out where it went. My original hoses were all in good shape so I just kept the stock one. The hose at the top of the T should have plenty of give to allow it to be hose clamped to the new hose/PCV valve. Make sure you get a good connection on this hose as it is hard to reach and not very easy to tell if you got it on there very well.
9. After everything is in place under the intake you can now reconnect the new Y hose. This is simply done in the reverse order of taking the original off.
10. Reconnect all of the plates and air hoses that were removed in the beginning. The air hose that is connected to the front plate (if you disconnected it at the right of the intake) will have to be re routed behind the new S hose to reach its stock location.
Here is what my ******* setup looked like compared to the crisp and clean 034 kit.
This is only my second DIY on here. If anyone has any questions about this please either post it up on here or send me a PM. If you notice anything that is off or isnt right please alert me and I will fix it as soon as I can. I really hope this helps yall out.