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D.I.Y. MKIV 1.8T Crankcase Ventilation System Replacement

92K views 17 replies 10 participants last post by  cableman 
#1 ·
I put this DIY together to help anyone out that is going to have to go through the painstaking process of replacing the crankcase vent system because all of their stock hoses have rotted through and fallen apart. Instead of having to pay not only dealership labor costs, the hoses from the dealership start at $74 each. So hopefully I can lay this out well enough that you can use this to help you install this kit yourself.


Tools Needed:
5mm Allen Wrench (hex wrench)
10mm Socket
Flat head screwdriver in several lengths
Needle Nose Pliers
Pair of dikes (wire cutters)
Good Flashlight or Work Light
Dremel Tool (if your brave and have steady hands)
A Crap Ton of Patience
Small Pair of Hands if You Have Access to Some

First off the pictures on mine are going to be different because I had already replaced the stock hoses with my ******* version, that successfully lasted just under 2 weeks. So hopefully you will get the idea.

I am using the Crankcase breather kit from 034 MotorSport. It was $114 and some change including shipping. The kit comes with everything needed to do the project including hose clamps. Here is the link http://www.034motorsport.com/engine...-kit-mk4-18t-reinforced-silicone-p-19987.html



1. You are going to first remove your engine cover. After you remove that you will notice this funky looking Y hose coming off of your valve cover. There are 3 hose clamps that you are going to have to cut off (if they are the stock one time use clamps). I removed these with my pair of dikes and/or my dremel.





Notice: I have installed my own hoseclamps in these spots. If you are running stock hoses your's WILL look different.

2. After you have removed the upper Y hose, you will find on the front of the intake there is a metal plate that has a plastic air hose mounted to it as well as the oil dipstick. First you will see where the plastic hose is attached to that plate by 2 10mm nuts. Remove the nuts and loosen the air hose from the plate. You may want to unplug the hose at its connector to the right of the intake to allow it more movement. Then you will see 2 5mm allen (hex) bolts connecting that plate to the intake. You will want to remove those to allow that plate to move a little so you can get your hand in the tight spot underneath the intake. You can remove the intake all together if you would like, it would make access much easier but is time consuming. The green arrows denote the 10mm nuts and the red boxes are the allen bolts.



3. After you have loosened the plate, then comes the fun part (if you didn't remove the intake). You will see a 90 degree hard plastic hose connected into a 1" diameter hole in the block, this is where the flashlight comes in. This hose is held in by a retaining pin. You need to first remove a white electrical connector from its clip-in holder (Sorry but I couldn't get my camera in there good enough to get a picture of the white connector), if you dont take this connector out the retainer pin will not come out. After the white connector has been removed there is plenty of wire slack to move it. You will need to then take a long flat head screwdriver and stick it between the intake and begin to wedge the pin out of place, but not too far. You MUST keep this pin, do not drop it or misplace it or you will have to go get another one. After you have loosened the pin you can reach in from the right side with a pair of needle nose pliers and completely remove the pin. The pin is difficult to see in the pic but I outlined the head of it where the screwdriver needs to be placed and then the left side of the pin.



4. After the pin has been removed you may have to wiggle the hose out of its socket to remove it. I had to take and spray a VERY SMALL amount of PB Blaster down there to get it out. Once the 90 has been removed from the block you can then go to the right under side of the intake and find where that hose makes a T. This is where the PCV valve is located. There is a hose that is connected to the top of the T via a one time use clamp. You are going to have to break that clamp and remove the top hose from the T to be able to remove the vent system. Once again I couldn't get a great picture.



The top most aftermarket hose clamp in the photo is where you need to remove the stock one. After that hose has been removed you can now pull the old hoses out very carefully. When I did my ******* install I yanked that stuff out and ended up breaking the 90 hose. I attempted to epoxy it back together... did not work out so well.



So just for future reference... That aint gonna work.

5. Once the old vent system has been pulled out, I took the time to clean where the 90 hose connected into the block. My original hose had deteriorated, and left some stuff behind.



6. Once you have all of that cleaned up, you can start installing your new kit. I began with the 90 hose that goes to the block. The 034 kit has the 90, the T, and the S hose all made into one. You are going to have to go in at the right side of the intake to get it to slide back into place. Once you have the new hose lined up just right you will have to apply some pressure on the top of the hose to get it to slip down into the connector at the block. I accomplished this by using the handle end of a long screwdriver, by pushing down on the top through the gaps in the intake. After the hose has settled into the connector you are going to have to continue with the pressure while you slide the retaining pin back into place. Trying to do all of that at once is a pain, you will probably need someone to atleast hold your light for you while you attempt to hold pressure and insert the pin.



7. Once the 90 is back in the block next you will need to place the S hose in-between all of the other hoses at the right of the intake to it matches up correctly with the new Y hose.





Hopefully the pictures give you a pretty good idea of how to snake that thing back up through there.

8. After you have the S portion of the new hose positioned right you are going to want to reconnect the hose that went to the top of the T on the old hose to the new PCV valve. The kit comes with a hose to replace the stock one but in my noob mechanical knowledge I could not figure out where it went. My original hoses were all in good shape so I just kept the stock one. The hose at the top of the T should have plenty of give to allow it to be hose clamped to the new hose/PCV valve. Make sure you get a good connection on this hose as it is hard to reach and not very easy to tell if you got it on there very well.

9. After everything is in place under the intake you can now reconnect the new Y hose. This is simply done in the reverse order of taking the original off.

10. Reconnect all of the plates and air hoses that were removed in the beginning. The air hose that is connected to the front plate (if you disconnected it at the right of the intake) will have to be re routed behind the new S hose to reach its stock location.



Here is what my ******* setup looked like compared to the crisp and clean 034 kit.



This is only my second DIY on here. If anyone has any questions about this please either post it up on here or send me a PM. If you notice anything that is off or isnt right please alert me and I will fix it as soon as I can. I really hope this helps yall out.
 

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#4 ·
So I followed your DIY and got all the hoses installed... AFTER 4 HOURS!!!

3 of those hours were trying to get the C-pin off the block where the lower PCV hose fits. After trying to pull it off with pliers and sliding zip ties in between the pin and the block and pulling it wouldn't budge a millimeter.

So here's the quick and easy way:
1. Take a pair of pliers in your right hand, a long thin screwdriver in your right.
2. Pull the pin as far as you can with the pliers and slide the head of the screwdriver between the pin and the block.
3. Twist the screwdriver and it the pin will begin to move.
4. After fully twisting, insert a larger screwdriver and twist again, do this till its out far enough that you can pull it the rest of the way with the pliers.
5. Boom goes the dynamite.

The rest of the install was cake, took a little bit to figure out how to snake the lower hose up to the Y hose what with the 50 other hoses in that space.
 
#5 ·
yeah the original hose and retaining pin gave me a hard time as well. I'm pretty sure the when I first got it off, I went about it just about the same way you did. As soon as you can use that screwdriver to break it loose it comes right out. Glad this write up could help.
 
#9 ·
I guess this thread is pretty old, but I'm going to take a shot with a question. I have a 2003 Jetta with the AWP engine. I'm not sure what engine was in the DYI, but I seem to have an addiional hose coming off a small nipple next to where the Y hose connects to the crankcase. This hose, according to an exploded illustration I have, runs down, and seems to connect to the PCV valve. There is also another hose that comes off the PCV valve as well that I believe was accounted for in the DIY.

I would like to get the same kit as in the DIY, but am wondering what I would do with this other hose, as it doesn't seem like it would have an attachment point to this new setup.

To clarify, it looks like in my illustration (ETKA), there is a tee where the PCV valve is located. It appears that one hose comes off the bottom of the tee, and one that runs from the valve cover (near the y hose) connects to the side of the tee. Not sure if this is different from the earlier models. Any advice would be appreciated!

Dan
 
#10 ·
I had this to as did the OP. What you have to do is buy some spare line and a couple tees and tie in that third somewhere. Doesn't matter where as long as it gets vacuum. It took me forever to figure out what to do but once I figured it out it was easy enough to understand. Let us know if you have anymore questions.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the reply!

I guess I don't 100% understand what you mean. You would run a new hose off that other nipple at top of crankcase (next to y hose) and connect it into any area of any hose in the system using a tee? If this is the case, not sure why you would need more than one tee.

If so does it matter what side of the pcv valve it is connected into? I guess you could tee it into the main lower s hose somewhere, or would it be better to do it in the s hose coming off the pcv valve?

Thanks
Dan
 
#14 ·
Red neck ways. Thank you for taking the time to post all the directions on crank vent system. I have a 05 18 t the y pipe at top vale cover conecting to intake pipe before the turbo is being sucked flat. If I replace the pcv valve will this fix the issue of rough idle and flat hoses.?
my red neck fix for the 90 degree plastic pipe was water weld epoxy puddy wraped (jb weld puddy)around broken plastic pipe like a cast. 7 days and holding.
 
#15 ·
First, huge thanks for posting this DIY. Saved me a TON of money.


My experience:


I think it took me about 4-5 hours total over 2 days. Lots of swearing and angry fist shaking.


Things I broke while trying to get that elbow hose:


- the elbow hose. It tore right at/below the elbow. You're right, in the end the PB blaster and some time got that thing loose. Even then I had to do some questionable things (I won't detail them as I don't know how much damage I did in the process) getting that thing out and getting the new one back in again.


- the oil dipstick tube (needed to be replaced anyway, the opening had gotten crumbly.
- that hose I asked about above.


I curse VW for all the crumbly plastic under the hood. The Jetta lived in Minnesota for 10 years so the extreme temps probably did a number on all that stuff.


A Question:


Can anyone tell me what that plastic hose is called (P/N would also be useful) that's bolted to that plate in the picture below? It was in bad shape and crumbled in a spot. I need to replace that thing too now. I'm gonna duct tape that thing back together for now, but it'd be nice to get a permanent replacement in there for the long haul.


2. After you have removed the upper Y hose, you will find on the front of the intake there is a metal plate that has a plastic air hose mounted to it as well as the oil dipstick. First you will see where the plastic hose is attached to that plate by 2 10mm nuts. Remove the nuts and loosen the air hose from the plate. You may want to unplug the hose at its connector to the right of the intake to allow it more movement. Then you will see 2 5mm allen (hex) bolts connecting that plate to the intake. You will want to remove those to allow that plate to move a little so you can get your hand in the tight spot underneath the intake. You can remove the intake all together if you would like, it would make access much easier but is time consuming. The green arrows denote the 10mm nuts and the red boxes are the allen bolts.

 
#18 ·
Thanks for posting this. My 2003 MKIV Jetta had been throwing a P0171 "too lean" error for a long time. I had replaced the upper/top "Y" hose several years ago and never had the courage to dig into the lower hoses. I suspected they were in bad shape. After getting everything apart, I found that the "S" hose had a 2 inch split in it, and the previous owner used a zip tie to secure one of the other hoses. Here are some photos and commentary which might be of use to others:

I used a couple of squirts of PB Blaster on the "L" part that connects to the engine to get it loose. Luckily the green clip came right out with no problems, but I had to wiggle the "L" hose piece a few times before it came out.

I found it hard to visualize the whole complete assembly without seeing it in person. This shows the whole assembly as it be installed on the engine. I am holding the "S" hose in the correct position. The vice is holding the part that connects to the engine:

Metal


The "S" hose was in bad shape: The rubber was the usual mushy, soft, weak texture. The "T" piece was not split, but the rubber was about the same. These show the split in the S hose:

Auto part Hand


Leg Snake Reptile Python Scaled reptile


Auto part Vehicle Engine Wire


Previous owner's zip tie:

Wire


Hole before cleaning. The green O ring is still in there:

Auto part


I found that if you remove the orange dipstick tube totally, then you get more space to work with and you can push forward the bracket a bit to get a flashlight into the area. This is a good time to replace the dip stick holder as they get brittle anyhow. Here we see the bracket pushed out of the way:

Vehicle Auto part Car Engine


I put a paper towel in the dip stick hole to prevent crud from getting into the crankcase. You can also see the edge of the hole where the crankcase vent hose was removed:

Auto part Fuel line Engine Automotive engine part


I ordered this assortment of parts for the repair, and am waiting for the parts to arrive in a few days:

http://store.034motorsport.com/brea...-volkswagen-1-8t-awp-reinforced-silicone.html

Breather Hose Kit, Late MkIV Volkswagen 1.8T AWP, Reinforced Silicone
Part Number: 034-101-3007
Manufacturer: 034Motorsport

Hopefully these photos will help others. Thanks gain to the OP for starting this thread. I usually hang out on Jeepforum and work on my 1985 Jeep, but thought I'd give a bit back to the VW community.
 
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